
Anthony Vaccarello's Design Evolution: A Retrospective

By Anna Wintour


By Anna Wintour
Anthony Vaccarello, the distinguished Belgian designer, is set to be honored with the International Designer of the Year award at the upcoming CFDA gala. His illustrious journey in the fashion world began with significant acclaim, culminating in his pivotal role at Saint Laurent starting in 2016, a tenure that concluded triumphantly a decade later and became a highlight of the spring 2027 season. Before his rise to global prominence, Vaccarello's creative path was marked by a clear and consistent vision that emphasized a dark, alluring, and provocative style, featuring distinctive elements like high slits and daring cutouts, all frequently paired with slender stilettos.
The journey of Anthony Vaccarello commenced in 2006 when he secured the prestigious Hyères Prize for his graduate collection, an early testament to his burgeoning talent. Following this significant achievement, he honed his craft under the tutelage of the legendary Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi, gaining invaluable experience that would shape his future endeavors. By 2009, having relocated to Paris, Vaccarello embarked on his independent design venture, initiating a project that, despite its modest beginnings, quickly captured attention. His initial five-look collection was notably showcased in Maria Luisa Poumaillou's esteemed Maria Luisa boutique, signaling his arrival on the Parisian fashion scene. Vogue Runway began its comprehensive coverage of Vaccarello's collections with his Fall 2011 presentation. During this period, the designer succinctly described his aesthetic as "always black, always sexy," a philosophy he consistently upheld throughout his career, marked by a recurring motif of thigh-high slits, strategic cutouts, and alluringly asymmetric designs, frequently complemented by ultra-thin stiletto heels. These elements collectively defined his distinctive and impactful contributions to contemporary fashion.
Vaccarello's consistent commitment to his unique aesthetic not only propelled him to critical acclaim but also solidified his reputation as a designer who masterfully blends sophistication with a provocative edge. His work serves as a reminder that a strong, singular vision can leave an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. The upcoming CFDA award is not just a recognition of his past achievements but also an affirmation of his enduring influence and innovative spirit in shaping modern style.
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Legendary editor-in-chief of Vogue and global fashion authority.

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