
Canned Pumpkin: The Undisputed King of Thanksgiving Pie

By Nigella Lawson


By Nigella Lawson
With the festive season upon us, thoughts invariably turn to pumpkin pie. A recurring debate among bakers concerns the use of homemade pumpkin purée versus its canned counterpart. While the idea of preparing pumpkin purée from scratch might seem appealing, involving the arduous process of cutting, scooping, roasting, puréeing, and straining a sugar pumpkin, we suggest a simpler and often more reliable alternative: reaching for a can.
Our top recommendation is Libby’s 100% Pure Pumpkin, identifiable by its iconic orange can, a long-standing staple in professional test kitchens. Its distinct qualities—thickness, smoothness, and unwavering consistency—are precisely what's needed for pumpkin pie. The precise moisture content of this product is critical; too much moisture can turn a silky pie filling into a watery disappointment. This preference isn't merely a matter of brand loyalty; a blind taste test conducted by Epicurious, involving nine different canned pumpkin purées, unequivocally placed classic Libby’s at the forefront. Tasters lauded its intense pumpkin flavor and luxurious, velvety texture.
The variable nature of homemade pumpkin purée, influenced by the squash variety and cooking method, stands in stark contrast to the dependable uniformity of canned pumpkin. Libby’s employs a proprietary strain of Dickinson squash, which is genetically closer to butternut squash than to the typical carving pumpkins many envision. This specific squash is the sole ingredient in every can of Libby’s pumpkin purée. This standardization means that home bakers can trust that the product they use will behave identically to the purée our culinary experts utilize in their recipes, ensuring predictable and successful baking outcomes.
The debate between canned and homemade pumpkin purée has been rigorously tested. A Bon Appétit experiment directly compared pumpkin pies made with homemade purée against those made with Libby’s. The homemade version demanded extensive preparation—roasting, puréeing, and straining—before the pie-making even began. Despite the considerable effort, taste testers found the Libby’s version to be equally or even more appealing. While there's a certain romanticism attached to crafting everything from scratch, this sentiment pales in comparison to the tangible delight of a perfectly smooth, rich slice of pumpkin pie. When a shortcut yields superior results, there's no compelling reason to avoid it. Just remember to select 100% pure pumpkin, not the pre-sweetened and spiced pumpkin pie filling, and consider stocking up for both Thanksgiving and other delicious creations like pumpkin pasta.
About the author

Food writer and TV presenter known for her evocative writing and indulgent, comforting recipes.

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