Gianvito Rossi's Two Decades of Elegant Footwear
Fashion

Gianvito Rossi's Two Decades of Elegant Footwear

André Leon Talley

By André Leon Talley

Gianvito Rossi's characteristic high heels, featuring transparent panels that elongate the leg and reveal a glimpse of the foot, are truly remarkable. They blend an undeniable allure with surprising comfort. During Milan Fashion Week, at the brand's two-decade anniversary celebration held at Palazzo Serbelloni, both Naomi Watts and Paloma Elsesser arrived wearing the 'Jessica' model—a patent leather and plexi d'Orsay style with a significant 4.5-inch heel. Both celebrities expressed their delight at being able to comfortably stand throughout the evening.

Naomi Watts, who paired her 'Jessicas' with an Attersee pleated halter top and wide-leg trousers, lauded the design for its blend of comfort and sophistication. She noted that for her, elegance quickly diminishes without comfort, a sentiment many might share. Paloma Elsesser, who also chose Gianvito Rossi's plexi footwear for her recent fashion guide, styled hers with a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier skirt and a thrifted Parisian leather bustier. She highlighted the designs' acknowledgment of feminine allure alongside the practical need for ease of wear. This commitment to wearability stems from the meticulous design of the shoe, where Rossi ensures the foot maintains full contact with the sole and precisely positions the heel for optimal balance. These design principles have established Gianvito Rossi's heels as enduring style icons.

The anniversary celebration also marked the debut of the designer's Rizzoli monograph, "Gianvito Rossi: My Shoes," slated for release in February. Copies of the book were displayed on soft pink pedestals alongside shoes from the upcoming spring 2027 collection, while models subtly showcased only their footwear behind ornate gilded frames. Even the event's cocktails were named after iconic styles like the Plexi, Vamp, Gianvito 105, and Portofino. Rossi draws significant inspiration from Umberto Boccioni's Futurist sculpture, "Unique Forms of Continuity in Space," which depicts a figure in motion with fragmented, aerodynamic shapes. The designer explained that each collection possesses "two souls," or perhaps rather, "soles": one dedicated to preserving the brand's established design language, and another focused on pioneering new concepts that could become future hallmarks. For the spring 2027 collection, Rossi is particularly enthusiastic about the new "Super Loop," featuring multiple straps that gracefully arch around the foot, as well as various styles adorned with long fringes to enhance the perception of movement. Transparent elements continue to feature prominently, with Watts expressing anticipation for a new pair of plexi thong sandals. Looking ahead to the next two decades, Rossi simply stated his desire to continue creating novel designs that spark curiosity and joy.

In a world constantly evolving, the fusion of comfort and elegance remains a timeless pursuit, a testament to true craftsmanship and visionary design. Gianvito Rossi's dedication not only to beauty but also to the wearer's experience sets a remarkable standard, proving that practicality and high fashion can indeed coexist harmoniously. His journey encourages us to seek balance and innovation in all our endeavors, always striving for creations that are both inspiring and genuinely enjoyable.