
Miuccia Prada's Enduring Skirt Legacy: A Deep Dive into the Spring Collection

By Naomi Campbell


By Naomi Campbell
For many celebrated designers, a singular garment often encapsulates their creative essence. For Alber Elbaz, it was the cocktail dress; for Phoebe Philo, the impeccably tailored trousers. However, for Mrs. Prada, her legacy is intrinsically linked to the skirt. Her personal style, consistently featuring a crewneck knit paired with a full or straight skirt that gracefully falls between the shin and knee, has not only defined her own aesthetic but has also profoundly shaped her brand's design philosophy, inspiring countless fashion interpretations.
The profound impact of the Prada skirt is evident in its dedicated online following, with social media accounts like @whatmiuccia and @miucciafinale meticulously documenting its evolution. This season, Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons embarked on a creative exploration of this emblematic item. Simons noted their fascination with how Prada skirts, with their inherent eccentricity, distinct forms, and decorative elements, have consistently stood the test of time, embodying a lasting design language. Indeed, every one of the 63 runway ensembles prominently featured a skirt, ranging from short to long, and from intricately embellished to elegantly simple.
The show commenced with a striking red wrap skirt secured with a prominent black Velcro strip, perfectly complemented by a minimalist bra top. A subsequent look presented a chartreuse skirt, thoughtfully split at the sides to reveal a delicate slip beneath, paired with a sophisticated turtleneck. This innovative approach continued, with the designers skillfully reinterpreting and refining Mrs. Prada's signature aesthetic.
The collection further evolved to include slip skirts adorned with ribbon details, encased within sheer chiffon, followed by leather skirt suits featuring vibrant, dyed finishes. Boxy, pleated gray skirts, accented with contrasting strips of colorful Velcro and sparkling rhinestone embellishments, were paired harmoniously with maroon or turquoise sweaters. Simons articulated this design philosophy, stating, "There is a lot of illogical behavior, which is an important notion, in Prada as a whole and this collection specifically. You can have the most industrial thing—velcro—and the most delicate thing—crystal embroidery—and combine the two."
For those seeking to infuse a touch of avant-garde into their wardrobe, swapping a traditional sweater for a more daring bandeau top offers an immediate transformation. While a below-the-knee skirt might traditionally be perceived as matronly, Mrs. Prada has elevated it to a symbol of contemporary chic, making it desirable across all age groups. As she articulated in the show notes, "Each skirt can be entirely reinvented by every person who wears it, through its combinations and juxtapositions with other pieces. They can transform its meaning."
Enthusiastic Prada devotees were treated to subtle allusions from previous collections. The fluid black nylon skirts evoked memories of the Spring 2021 line, while the waxed pleated variations harkened back to Spring 2012. Skirts adorned with graphic scribbles brought to mind the artistic banana prints from Spring 2011, showcasing a thoughtful continuity within the brand's design evolution.
In addition to the pervasive skirts, models showcased minimalist bra tops, complete with whimsical coin purses dangling like key chains from their ribcages – a detail that quickly became a social media sensation. Yet, these complementary elements remained in constant dialogue with the central theme of the skirt, emphasizing its pivotal role in the collection.
This Spring collection exuded a refined clarity, appearing more distilled than previous offerings. The setting at the Prada Foundation was intentionally stark, featuring pristine white walls and translucent acrylic benches, further emphasizing the collection's pared-down aesthetic. Backstage, Mrs. Prada, elegantly dressed in a gray short-sleeve sweater and a delicate pale pink silk skirt, mirrored the collection's essence. Her personal uniform, as iconic as the brand's triangular logo, continues to inspire, demonstrating that true Prada style transcends overt branding, residing instead in an inherent sensibility that is instantly recognizable to those who understand its unique language.
About the author

Iconic supermodel who has authored books on modeling and style, and advocates for diversity in fashion.

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