
Valentino's 'Antibiblioteca' Fashion Show: A Literary Tribute

By Diane von Fürstenberg


By Diane von Fürstenberg
Valentino's recent "Antibiblioteca: Catalogue of the Unread" collection redefined the fashion show experience, shifting focus from mere visual spectacle to a profound engagement with literature. This unique event saw attendees contributing books, which were later designated for donation to local libraries, weaving a rich tapestry between the worlds of haute couture and intellectual exploration. The initiative underscored how personal reading choices serve as intimate reflections of identity, positioning books as a distinctive and expressive accessory within the high-fashion landscape.
The show's underlying philosophy championed the idea that what one reads speaks volumes about who they are, perhaps even more so than their attire. This concept was beautifully illustrated by the diverse selection of books brought by various personalities, each choice offering a glimpse into their individual perspectives and passions. The collection itself, while imbued with Alessandro Michele's signature ethereal and romantic aesthetic, thoughtfully integrated this literary theme, presenting a fresh narrative where fashion and personal narrative converge through the shared love of books.
Valentino's "Antibiblioteca: Catalogue of the Unread" event ingeniously merged the worlds of haute couture and intellectual pursuit, challenging conventional fashion week formats. Guests were prompted to contribute a book—either new or from their personal collection—with the promise that these volumes would subsequently enrich local libraries. This gesture transformed the act of attending a fashion show into a collaborative, community-focused literary project, emphasizing that personal style extends beyond garments to encompass one's intellectual and cultural inclinations. The initiative not only fostered a deeper engagement with the brand's creative vision but also highlighted the intrinsic value of books as extensions of individual identity, making them the most compelling accessory of the day in Paris.
This innovative concept, where the front row became a curated reading list, resonated deeply with the audience. The invitation itself included a whimsical compendium of imagined book titles, offering a subtle hint at the philosophical underpinnings of the collection. While the showcased designs maintained Michele's characteristic romantic and ethereal sensibility, the overall presentation was a profound exercise in self-portraiture through literary choices. Figures such as Beka Gvishiani with Claude Baillen's "Chanel Solitaire," Francesca Ragazzi with Natalia Aspesi's "Lui!," and Cynthia Erivo with James Baldwin's "Giovanni’s Room," each brought a book reflecting their passions, influences, and personal narratives. This blend of fashion and literature fostered a unique dialogue, proving that intellectual curiosity can be as fashionable and expressive as any designer garment, thereby enriching the cultural dialogue surrounding the event.
The event celebrated the diversity of literary tastes and their profound connection to individual identities, with each participant's book choice revealing a piece of their personal story. Lorenzo Zurzolo, for instance, selected Pier Paolo Pasolini's "Ragazzi di vita," a work rooted in Rome that explores themes of friendship and societal marginalization, reflecting his appreciation for stories that give voice to the overlooked. Similarly, Samara Weaving embraced Oisín McKenna's "Evenings and Weekends," showcasing a preference for compelling narratives. The contributions from Vogue's own Nicole Phelps and Luke Leitch further underscored the eclectic nature of intellectual pursuits within the fashion industry, with Phelps bringing a book on Dalí and Leitch an old catalog of Uffizi works, connecting fashion's aesthetic roots to art history. These selections collectively painted a vivid picture of the diverse intellectual landscape informing the world of fashion.
Beyond personal preferences, the chosen books also highlighted universal themes and the transformative power of reading. Dan and Livia from Atlas of Shows presented Raymond Queneau’s "Exercises in Style," drawing parallels between its repetitive narrative structure and the cyclical yet innovative nature of fashion shows, where familiar elements are reinterpreted to create new experiences. Marta Oldrini of Vogue Italia revisited Leonardo Sciascia’s "Il Giorno Della Civetta," emphasizing how literature evolves with one's personal growth and perspective. Vanessa Scalera's choice of Fyodor Dostoevsky's "Memories from the Underground" spoke to the turbulent journey of adolescence and self-discovery, while Yukari Tsukahara from Vogue Japan shared her comfort novel, Kenji Miyazawa's "A Night on the Milky Way Train and Other Stories," a philosophical work exploring nature and morality. Even Patrick Pendiliuk, with Riley Sager's "The House on the Cliff," made a case for reading purely for escapism, demonstrating that books serve myriad purposes, from deep introspection to simple pleasure, even amidst the demanding schedule of Fashion Week. Michela D’Angelo's choice of Anna Wiener's "Uncanny Valley" further broadened the spectrum, touching upon contemporary themes and the tech world, solidifying the idea that books, much like fashion, are integral to self-expression and cultural commentary.
About the author

Fashion designer and author, best known for the wrap dress and her writings on style and female empowerment.

by André Leon Talley
by André Leon Talley